Table of Content
Kebaya as a legacy that still exists in Indonesia
1. Kebaya Labuh from Riau
The Sultanate of Siak Sri Indrapura, founded around the 18th
century AD, is the Islamic Melayu Kingdom. This kingdom was once established in
Siak Regency, Riau Province, Indonesia. The geographical location of the
Sultanate is opposite the Sultanate of Malacca and the port of Sri Indrapura is
built downstream of the Siak river which is directly connected to international
shipping through the Malacca Strait.
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| Source : Google Image |
Tom Pires notes that at that time the Siak Indrapura
kingdom was under the sovereignty of the Malacca Kingdom. Just like the Malacca
sultanate the Siak Kingdom was built with a strong Islamic cultural nuance, the
influence of Islamic culture is probably a direct influence from the Sultanate
of Malacca and the culture also the influence of the Islamic kingdom in the
north, namely the Samudra Pasai Kingdom.
The influence of Islam is not only on the ideology of the
kingdom but also on social relations and lifestyles, including those that
include clothing, especially the clothes worn by the Women.
Like many port cities, it's visited by merchants from
various regions, and the port of Siak Indapura is no exception. Culture from
outside is absorbed by the local population, in the next era there is a new
cultural input, and the culture that has existed before will experience mixing.
Likewise with kebaya, Riau kebaya is a combination of Melayu Kurung Dress with
Javanese Kebaya which later gave birth to a new kebaya variant called Kebaya
Labuh.
The hallmark of the kebaya Labuh, the collar closes
tightly to the neck, but this kebaya has a middle split from the collar to the
bottom end. Close the kebaya clothes by linking the left and right sides of the
kebaya using buttons. The length of the Kebaya Labuh is made longer when
compared to the Java kebaya, which is up to the knee.
Kebaya Labuh is equipped with three buttons, these three
buttons can only cover the top part of the kebaya while the other part of the
bottom remains open.
The bottom cover of this Kebaya Labuh is usually in the
form of batik cloth or long songket cloth, how to wear this long cloth by
folding it on the right side and knotting it on the left side. There are now
more variants of Kebaya Labuh and usually, Melayu women wear this Kebaya Labuh
at events or moments that are considered important. Some variants of Kebaya
Labuh are equipped with a shawl which when needed can function as a hair cover
on the head.
2. Kebaya Songket Palembangs
It almost resembles Kebaya Labuh from Riau, but
there are still differences in appearance. Traditional Palembang kebaya, apart
from has a variety of fabric patterns as materials, but the ribbed fabric is
the most widely used choice. Usually, the color of the kebaya is adjusted to
the motif, and the color of the songket is a cloth covering the bottom.
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| Source : Google Image |
Even though they both use buttons as a link to both sides,
the Palembang Kebaya complements it with a chest decoration. The chest
decoration can be in the form of a brooch attached to the kebaya, or it can
also use a necklace with a relatively large medallion.
The scarf is also a complement to the Palembang Kebaya, a scarf made of songket material with motifs and patterns that match the songket as a subordinate. Generally, the shawl songket and the men's cover songket are made in pairs.
3. Balinese Kebaya
The Balinese Kebaya is almost no different from the Javanese Kebaya, only the Balinese Kebaya has a striking difference, namely the presence of an obi, an obi in the form of a scarf tied around the waist.
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| Source : Google Image |
Balinese kebayas are usually made of fibrous
materials, some are made of cotton. Balinese hair buns also complement the
appearance of Balinese women with their traditional kebaya, Balinese women's
hair coils (pusung tagel) are somewhat different from Javanese women's
buns in general.
4. Sundanese Kebaya
Just like kebaya from Central Java or East Java, Sundanese kebaya has a shape like kebaya in general. The difference is the embroidery motif on the neck. The color of the Sundanese kebaya is usually bright while the bottom is usually combined with jarik cloth or sinjang bundle in Sundanese. |
| Source : Google Image |
The traditional Sundanese kebaya is somewhat
similar to the kebaya model of other Javanese kebayas. But nowadays it's a bit
difficult to see the original cut, traditional Sundanese kebaya, this is
because there are now many fashion kebaya creations. As a marker of benchmarks,
like other traditional Javanese kebayas, the original Sundanese kebaya
creations also use bef. The difference besides embroidery is also in the length
of the kebaya cutout, the Sundanese kebaya cutout is lower to slightly above
the knee.
5. Kebaya Uniform Model
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| Source : Google Image/Pinterest |
• The shape of the collar
Collar is made V and continuous, the shape of the collar is like imitating the style of the Encim / Betawi kebaya but without the folds. The cutouts of the collar are immediately shaped in such a way with embroidery, the embroidery is made continuously so that it adorns both left and right sides of the kebaya cover. The embroidery groove is made to resemble a ribbon, the embroidery also adorns the circle at the bottom edge of the kebaya. The thread used to form the embroidery pattern uses the same thread color as the color of the kebaya material.
• This kebaya model is made with a press body cut.
The hallmark of the uniform kebaya is that the sleeves are made in three quarters, the ends of the sleeves are folded and decorated with embroidery of the same size as the rest of the embroidery. The length of the kebaya is made up to a little above the middle of the buttocks so that it gives a sexy impression.
• The choice of suitable materials
To make this kebaya model, you can use Crepe fabric, catoon or Diamond Italiano Georgette fabric. This type of kebaya is best suited by combining it with batik material. However, the way the batik cloth material is used here is not wrapped around like a traditional kebaya, but is made more practically into a skirt as a kebaya subordinate. The span model skirt is the most ideal combination to match the kebaya model made by the press body.
• Display a traditional impression
On the front of the skirt, folds are made that resemble the folds of traditional jarit cloth to enhance the impression of the skirt, also given a slit that is not too high.
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