Balinese Payas Agung Clothing as a Cultural Heritage
Payas Agung is unique, colorful, and
luxurious, one of which is Payas Agung. It is said that Payas Agung was
originally a dress worn by noble women from the Buleleng kingdom, but now it
has become the traditional clothing of the Balinese traditional community as a
whole.
The Kingdom of Buleleng (1660–1950) was located in the
northern area of Bali facing the Bali Sea. At that time the Buleleng kingdom
was a kingdom on the island of Bali with the most extensive and prosperous
area. Prosperity is due to agricultural and trade products because Buleleng is
a port that is a stopover for commercial ships.
Trading ships brought spices from eastern Indonesia to the
surrounding Banda Islands in the spice trade, especially nutmeg. In the voyage
that connects the eastern and western regions of the archipelago, the ship will
stop at the port of Buleleng.
As a stopover, Buleleng port provides the goods needed to
fill the ship's logistics. In addition to filling in the logistics of the ship,
it will also buy commodities produced in the Buleleng area, then the ship will
continue the voyage to the port of Malacca and vice versa.
The prosperity of the Buleleng kingdom is reflected in the
women's clothing of the Nobility of Payas Agung with gold crowns and other gold
jewelry. Centuries have passed and made history to bequeath cultural heritage
by the ancestors of the Balinese people so that culture is still maintained
today.
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| Image SOurce: matamata |
Payas Agung in his day was a palace dress that was only worn
by noble women. Currently, Payas Agung is a traditional Balinese cultural dress
that will only be worn in major religious ceremonies. One of them is the
traditional marriage ceremony as a cultural heritage in Balinese society.
All the details attached to Payas Agung have a noble
philosophical value which is based on Balinese Hindu teachings originating from
Sang Hyang White. The details symbolize the joy, peace, and serenity of the
heart of its adherents.
In addition to crowns made of gold, noble women who wear
Payas Agus are also equipped with striking gold decorations on the upper arms
and gold bracelets on the wrists.
The gold decoration on the upper arm is called Kana while
the gold decoration on the wrist is called Naga Satru. Not quite there, noble
women will also wear a gold neck ornament that is wide to cover half the
shoulders and hang down to above the chest. Then as a complementary decoration,
the Balinese women's Payas Agung clothing is equipped with gold pending which
is wrapped around the waist.
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| Image Source : Google Picture |
In addition to the jewelry items described above, the
traditional attire of noblewomen consists of three parts. First, Jarit cloth,
which is used to cover the abdomen down to the ankles, is covered with a cloth
as decoration, called Kamen Prada.
The upper part of the stomach is covered with Kemben in
Balinese terms called Ankin Prada, this cloth functions to cover the stomach to
get to the chest. Then the left shoulder will be covered with a shawl-like
cloth called Cerik.
The jarit cloth that functions to cover the lower body is
usually red while the kemben cloth is yellow, both fabrics are made of Balinese
songket woven cloth. Songket weaving is hand-woven fabric employing
attaching/inserting gold thread or silver thread or a combination of gold
thread and silver thread on the base cloth.
The area that produces high-quality songket on the island of
Bali is Sidemen village, located in Karangasem Regency. In some places in Bali
which is also known as a producer of songket cloth is Jimbrana, but songket
from Sidemen village has a distinctive cultural motif with finely detailed
workmanship.
Before the crown is placed on the head, the hair will be
arranged in a bun and then decorated with three kinds of flowers, namely yellow
Cempaka, white Cempaka, and Kenanga flowers. The three types of flowers
according to the wisdom of the Balinese people symbolize the Trimurti, the
highest power of Hindus.
The woman who wears Payas Agung traditional clothes will
paint her forehead with an arch shape, this arch shape is called Srinata. Then
added a painting in the form of a small red circle on the forehead located
between the eyebrows, this red circle symbolizes prosperity and safety.
Payas Agung which is worn as a traditional wedding dress
will be made in pairs, namely one Payas Agung for the bride and another Payas
Agung to be worn by the groom. Both are equipped with a crown, but Payas Agung
worn by the groom is equipped with a Keris.
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