Table of Content
History Of Kebaya Clothing
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| Source : Google Image/ Maunikah.com |
If you want to trace where the kebaya came from, neither of the two countries mentioned above has left a trace of a fashion culture that resembles the kebaya that we know today.
How the development of Indonesian women's clothing (especially women in Java) can be seen in the reliefs carved on several royal temples and statues that existed in Java at that time. From the age of the temple, it is also reflected in how the development of women's clothing at that time.
It can be distinguished as the beginning of the classical period, the middle of the classical period, and the end of the classical period, from time to time of the Hindu and Buddhist kingdoms in the archipelago.
Some historians agree that the classical period in Java started from the early days of the Hindu/Buddhist Kingdom until the beginning of the establishment of the Islamic Kingdom in Java.
Period Early Classics
The first Hindu kingdom in Java was the Tarumanegara Kingdom which was founded around the 5th century AD. The introduction of classical women's clothing can be seen in the reliefs of Borobudur temple in 750 - 770 AD, there is a depiction of women's clothing at that time in the form of a long cloth (jarit) covering the waist to the ankles. Some are depicted with jarit cloth covering the waist to their knee, but by leaving their chests exposed.How to use this jarit cloth by wrapping it around the body, at that time the jarit cloth was worn by both noble women, ordinary women, and priestesses only.
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| Source : Google Image |
Period Middle Classical
Period Middle Classical Mirigambar Temple, a relic of the 12th century from the Kediri Kingdom, was found in the village of Sumbergempol, Tulungagung. The sculptures found in the temple give us information that at that time women had covered their chests with kemben, although there were still some women who did not wear breastplates. The kemben cloth is a long cloth worn by women at that time wrapped around the body to cover the chest.The same thing is also described in the Durga Mahisasuramardhini statue found in the Singosari temple, (a goddess who was worshiped by the Hindu community at that time). A legacy of Gajahmada, the title name of a governor from the Majapahit kingdom who was placed in the Singosari area. From this information, we can estimate that at the time the statue was made, the women wore breastplates.
- 1313 AD, Gajah Mada began his career as a soldier in the Majapahit Kingdom
- 1319 AD was appointed governor in the Kahuripan area.
- 1351 AD The Gajahmada inscription informs that the King of Majapahit Tribuana Tunggaldewi at that time ordered Gajahmada to build Singosari Temple to honor Prabu Kertanegara, the ancestor of the King.
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| Source : Google Image |
Late Classical Period
Late Classical Period The last Hindu and Buddhist kingdoms were the Majapahit Kingdom which stood between the 13th century and the 16th century AD. The first Islamic kingdom in Java around the 15th-16th centuries (Cirebon Kingdom 1430; Islamic Mataram 1588).In the 1600s, the first Portuguese sailor group to land on Java on a trade mission made notes about the civilizati on of the Javanese people at that time. In his notes, Portuguese sailors described Javanese women at that time, especially those from the nobility, royal families, and priyayi wearing a kind of blouse which he called the kebaya.
Although the shape is simple, if you look at the function as a covering for the chest and shoulders of women, possibly the kebaya worn by women at that time was the influence of Islamic culture.
Historical records state that the Kingdom with an Islamic pattern was established on the land of Java at 15-16 AD.
In the next period, the kebaya has been adopted by almost all levels of society, then the kebaya becomes the everyday clothing worn by adult women in Java. Gradually the use of kebaya as a women's dress spread to various islands in the archipelago, especially the islands on the main trade route from Sumatra to Malacca, Bali, Sulawesi, and also Maluku.
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| Source : Google Image |
The New Era Period
After Indonesia's independence, the kebaya, which had previously spread throughout the country, has even been worn by Southeast Asian women. In Indonesia, especially in Java, the kebaya dress has been modified with various models and patterns, although it does not leave the original design standard.Each province on the island of Java has various styles and models of kebaya with kebaya models with their characteristics.
Since the kebaya dress was adopted by the archipelago, the kebaya has become the main clothing worn by adult women. This went on for a long time until the kebaya had various variations with certain patterns and cutouts representing the local fashion culture where the kebaya was developed.
Currently, the kebaya has shifted from everyday clothes to become a fashion trend with a charming model, the fabric materials used are also diverse. Whether it's progress or setback. Nowadays, the kebaya is only worn at certain events, but what is clear is that the kebaya has its own value as a favorite women's fashion treasury.
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