Table of Content
1. Traditional weaving is based on the basic ingredients of the
maker.
In addition to traditional woven fabrics that use cotton and silk as basic
materials, there is also some use natural fibers as the base material. The
nature fiber comes from Doyo leaves, the result of which is the Doyo Ulap ikat
cloth. Ikat weaving is a creative work in the form of sheets of cloth produced
from the traditional weaving process, using a simple loom made of wood and
bamboo which is operated manually. Weaving is made based on the local wisdom of
a region in Indonesia, the materials used to produce a piece of cloth all
utilize the resources provided by nature. The first materials are yarn, yarn is
obtained from the process of spinning the basic material. There are three main
types of raw materials used, namely:
-
Catton fiber
Start collecting old cotton pods, marked with brownish black fruit, and the fruit has cracked showing cotton fibers under the skin of the fruit. Mature fruit is harvested from cotton trees that produce fruit after at least 8 years of age after planting.
 |
| Source : Google Image/photo Bing |
Separating the cotton fiber from the cotton seed in the middle of the cotton fiber wrapping.
Separating the cotton fiber from the
cotton seed in the middle of the cotton fiber wrapping.
Clean the cotton fiber from broken twigs, the side of the seed coat then the cotton fiber is formed in small lumps Spin cotton with simple tools, starting with twisting the cotton and winding the resulting yarn.
-
Silkworm cocoons Fiber
The process is almost the same as spinning cotton, except that what is spun here is the fine fiber that wraps the cocoon
-
Doyo Leaf fiber
In East Kalimantan, there is one tribe that inhabits the interior of the forest, the Dayak tribe from the Benuaq Family, so they are known as the Benuaq Dayak. This tribe has local wisdom in the form of weaving skills using plant fibers as basic materials. The plants that produce the fiber are Doyo leaves, doyo plants live widely scattered on the forest floor, and the height of the plant leaves is about 30-65 cm from the ground.
To produce good quality fiber material, healthy old leaves are selected, namely whole leaves without tears.
To take the fiber contained in the leaves, the Doyo leaves must be soaked for several days so that later the fiber will show. After that, Doyo fiber is collected and dried under the hot sun.After the doyo fiber is dry, it is combed to remove the by-products so that pure fiber will be produced. After that the fiber is ready to be spun into yarn and will produce Ulap Doyo cloth.
2. Create a Color Pattern
Making dyes on threads or fibers of woven materials by immersion in dyes heated in a furnace.
- The black color is obtained from the soot of the resinous sap or water soaked in ironwood leaves or water soaking the skin of rambutan fruit.
- Yellow color, from turmeric rhizome soaking water
- Brown color, obtained by soaking gambier sap
- Red color, obtained from soaking noni roots and mangosteen rind
3. Use of loom
The loom used is a traditional loom in a simple form and system. The weaving process begins by placing the yarn or fiber in a vertical position on the Jingjingan located at the top of the loom. This yarn called Lungsi yarn is attached to the loom as the base yarn. Later this vertical thread will give the basic color to the woven fabric.
- The black color is obtained from the soot of the resinous sap or water soaked in ironwood leaves or water soaking the skin
of rambutan fruit.
- Yellow color, from turmeric rhizome soaking water
- Brown color, obtained by soaking gambier sap
- Red color, obtained from soaking noni roots and mangosteen rind
4. Woven fabric manufacturing process
The loom used is a traditional loom in a simple form and system. The weaving process begins by placing the yarn or fiber in a vertical position on the Jingjingan located at the top of the loom. This yarn called Lungsi yarn is attached to the loom as the base yarn. Later this vertical thread will give the basic color to the woven fabric.After the vertical thread has been tied to the loom, then proceed with inserting the weft thread, namely the thread in a horizontal position. The process of inserting this weft is by counting the number of vertical threads to be woven, counting the groups of threads must be done carefully so that the woven fabric that will be produced shows the motifs and patterns according to the planned pattern. In doing their work, the workers are seated in a sitting position on the floor, with their legs extended forward, under the loom.
The main parts that make up the loom.
- Installing the warp threads in the vertical position of the loom, the place to tie the warp threads is called Jingjingan
- Pieces of bamboo blades as an instrument to insert the weft, called Taropong.
- After the weft thread has been inserted it will then be pushed to be tightened with another weft thread that was first installed, this tool is called Barera.
- On it there is a separate bamboo blade used for tightening and tidying the weft, called a comb.
- The part that serves to roll the woven results, is located closest to the position of the weaver called Hapit Penggulung.
Post a Comment for "Weaving Crafts That Become Regional Identity in Indonesia"